See the surfer girl in the line up? – Here’s 10 reasons why she is so special
It takes a certain personality to take beating after beating, be outnumbered by men day after day, & still go out there chasing a dream. This is why that surfer girl is so special.
Bobbing in the water in-between sets the other day, I started looking at the faces all around me. Here in El Salvador, on this right-hand point break, women surrounded me. There were women of all colours, of all shapes, surfing all sorts of boards. Women learning to surf, and women speeding down the line with so much confidence you couldn’t help but gasp in awe. There was serious style in this lineup and everyone knew it. I smiled quietly to myself. What a pleasure to be amongst this strong female company. But I couldn’t help think of all the challenges that a surfer girl would have faced to get here to become surfers.
Surfing is f**king hard
If you think about it, it’s so challenging that even doing a turn is considered a trick. For women, it’s always going to be that bit harder. It’s a numbers game and unlike that one surf in El Salvador, women make up the smaller percentage in the sport, and in most line-ups. But the surfer girls that are out there, that have made time in their day to paddle out and sit confidently in a line up full of men, are defying the numbers. She’s out there because of pure love and a drive to grow, to progress and flow. To fall in love over and over, or as Andy Irons said ‘to be kissed by god’. Because that’s what surfing feels like.
So here’s to all the women that surf. To the girls paddling out day-after-day. Here’s the reason why surfer girls are special.
#1 A surfer girl doesn’t give up
From getting smashed on the shore break to diving headfirst into the sandbank. Learning to surf is hard knock, after hard knock. It takes a strong character to graduate those early days, push on through, and not give up. She is the picture of determination.
#2 She can handle the pressure
Not every surf break is welcoming, and not every surfer is kind. Some line-ups can be stressful places, wanting to break you down with their bad vibes, and make you paddle in. To be able to take that pressure and work with it, is a gift in itself. How’s that for resilience?
#3 She is driven and ambitious
Surfing is a 10-year sport. Meaning, it takes years to read the waves, let alone get good and start to ride like you actually know what you are doing! Any surfer that has put the time in to get good shows incredible dedication.
#4 She is independent
Up at dawn, first out the door. Solo surfs and travels to distant lands. This girl is happy in her own skin, with her own company. She happy to go about it alone.
#5 She is not concerned with looking her best all the time
Duck dives, hair in face, sunburn weathered skin, tan marks, chipped pedicures, sand under her mails, brittle and breaking hair, cuts and bruises, a sun-tanned stripe on one leg from your leash, the occasional tampon string hanging out your… you know what! … Surfing mostly, well it’s not pretty! But who the hell cares? A real woman that surfs doesn’t give two sh**s!
#6 She is strong, athletic and nimble
Surfing takes so many muscles moving in harmony to navigate both water and waves. To take those beatings, to paddle out when it’s big, to fight rip tides, to balance in the right spot on your surfboard, and to shift your weight so gracefully between your front and back feet. You need a body that works well and a body that you are in tune with. Surfer girls show day after day, how wonderfully capable, strong and beautiful their bodies are.
#7 She is patient
Sometimes the ocean does not speak, and the wait between sets is long. In these moments you learn patience. Or when some dick drops in on you over-and-over or paddles around you repeatedly. Again, patience. “She breaths deep” is a virtue that surfer girls know a lot about.
#8 She appreciates beauty
Surfing takes you to some beautiful places. Spending time in the ocean, in different shades of light, during storms, during day-break, as the last light disappears and you try to steal one last wave in. Surfing shows you the beauty in the world in a raw, untouched, and magical way. It’s not just the surfing that you get addicted to. It’s the beauty of the ocean and life itself.
#9 She’s empathetic
She’s been there: stuck on the shore break, caught in the rip, nose-diving on pop-up, bogging a rail on every turn attempt, getting her hair caught under her hand as she pops up! She knows how it feels and she can emphasise.
#10 She’s a bad-ass
Surfing is one of the hardest sports in the world. Like golf, you are always millimeters away from failure. To become good at it means you will have taken a pretty physical, mental, and emotional beating in your time. Surfing is dangerous, she boldly takes calculated risks every time she paddles out. This makes YOU my gorgeous surfer girlfriend, are a certified bad-ass!
So next time you see a girl in the lineup, encourage, support and celebrate her. She has conquered many challenges to get there, against the numbers and she never gave up. That is something to celebrate and encourage.
YOU my surfer girlfriend, are amazing!
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